The most dramatic glacier of South America easily accessible by bus from El Calafate.
There are plenty of glaciers in the world, but none are more dramatically staged than the Perito Moreno Glacier, located in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina. The good news for independent and wheelless travelers is that it is easily reachable by bus from the Calafate bus terminal without a tour. I’ve seen impressive glaciers in Canada, and by divulging this detail, I’m hoping to put weight on this: I think it is well worth an afternoon and the $50 transport cost.
With its 5,000 meters in length and towering 170 meters in height, 74 meters of which are above water, the Perito Moreno Glacier advances at a steady rate of about two meters per day, or 700 meters per year, defying the trends of retreating glaciers. Its sheer mass is evident in some areas where it reaches a thickness of up to 700 meters, showcasing its formidable presence in the landscape.
Visitors can witness dramatic ice-calving events where massive chunks of ice break off and crash into the water below. There are options to walk on the glacier (which requires planning and good physical condition), go kayaking, or take a short boat ride (around $45 USD). Some online commentaries on the tours offered mention small, uncomfortable transportation and time wasted in the morning in picking up everyone from their hotel. Plus, you get stuck in traffic as all tours operate at the same time. With a self-made tour, you can save some bucks and taste the freedom of meandering through the trails that serpentine a lush forest on the mountainside opposite the glacier.
Two comfortable buses depart daily, each returning four hours later. You can avoid the morning traffic by opting for the second bus, which departs at 12:30 from the bus terminal and returns at 18:30. Various bus companies offer the trip, all maintaining a standard price. I chose Cal Tur, which turned out great and smooth. The one-level bus was comfortable, and the driver provided instructions for the entry to the park; there was no need to figure out much on your own. I went in late February, and the bus was half empty, meaning that you can still go on the fly, but buying in advance removes some stress and the long queue.
After an hour’s ride, we made a stop at the park entrance to pay the fee (via Visa, cash, or buy it online in advance to save time), then arrived at the lower parking lot ( there is also a smaller parking lot at the top of the trail). At the lower point, the trail began at the coastline before rising to the highest point. The pathway serpentines through a lush, mossy forest, as picturesque as the glacier itself. The trails are well-identified with color chips. Amidst this natural beauty, funny small birds dart through the air, with their distinctive songs echoing through the tranquil surroundings, unaware of the chance they have to live next to a sleeping giant.
Four hours allow for a round trip with plenty of breaks – not to catch your breath but to marvel at the imposing ice monster lying ahead. At around 4:30, it becomes quiet, and you still have time to relax at one of the many exceptional viewpoints and catch one of those dramatic ice falls: as startling as a thunderstorm storm, you see it before you hear it. With the warmer summer conditions of February, I’ve counted one every 15 minutes or so.
In this rugged part of the world, where the weather can be unpredictable, I did not stress myself about the kind of day I would get. Of course, it happened to rain. But I’d take the rain over the alternative: relentless winds that disheveled the region regularly. Interestingly, the rainy and overcast atmosphere made the site even more spectacular. Nature really knows how to put on a show. Seeing the lonely foam board-looking, bright styrofoam-blue iceberg against a somber mountainous backdrop added a theatrical setting. It was as though I had entered a different world, far from the myriad Instagram-style pictures that saturate the internet.
Eventually, the clouds clear and the sun breaks through, revealing the ice giant’s true colors.
