One Year World nomad experiment in South America
In 2023, I decided to quit my rental apartment, put my stuff in storage, and set off on an experiment to live in a different country each month. The challenge was to stick to my usual monthly budget from Montreal for rent, food, and all the rest. Of course, this didn’t account for the necessary tourist activities that can drain your bank account.
One Year in South America: The Whole Thing
Over the course of two years, I traveled across Latin America, visiting nine countries and experiencing everything from long overnight buses through the Andes (twice) to crossing borders on foot at high and low altitudes. Here’s a breakdown of where I went, how long I stayed, and how I got in and out of each country.
United States
Crossing overland the northern American east coast during July, from Montreal to Pennsylvania to Savannah to Miami
My favorite pocket-sized New York, with a decent hostel right in the historic center. Delightfully spooky at night, especially with the old penitentiary that’s definitely worth a visit.
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A beach party utopia with a Art Deco backdrop — glamourous and extravagantly expensive. To avoid during the peak summer months, inexpicably laching shading spots to hide from the treacherous.
Colombia
One month in August. Loud, impulsive, friendly, affordable.
Point of entry: a 3h flight Fort Lauderdale to Cartagena. I considered taking a public bus from the airport, but I quickly backtracked and got a prepaid taxi instead. The intramural colonial town is charming but packed with tourists, and the burning sun of August will beat you to the ground.
A nightly bus ride from Cartagena takes you into the mountains’ eternal spring — a perfect hideout from the climate change madness. Medellin is a unique kebab of villages strung together into a linear city, cradled by mountains and packed with the most amazing rooftop views.
Skip the mosquitos and sunburns for a cultural immersion in this high-altitude capital, home to countless universities. Rent a public bike and ride the streets closed to cars every Sunday during Ciclovía. Point of exit: a 3-hour night flight to Manaus, taking the TransMilenio from midtown Bogotá .
Brazil
Two months and a half, from September to November. Comfortable public transport and nice friendly people everywhere make Brazil appear more secure than it is.
Point of entry: Manaus airport at 3 a.m., where I dozed on a hard bench until sunrise. With zero Portuguese, I managed to navigate the public bus, thanks to the patience of the gift-shop staff, and catch a bus from the airport to the center.
A secluded colonial town where every road goes either uphill or downhill.
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Safe and quiet island surrounded by beaches, which has the most beautiful airport surrounded by lush greenery, where I took a short flight to Buenos Aires.
The strangest city
Brazilian side
Argentina
Two months in winter (or summer in the south).
Point of entry: from Ezeiza Airport, at around 5 pm, I took an Uber to my Airbnb in Avellaneda, since public transport from the airport wasn’t practical. Buenos Aires is maybe the best city in the world. Mar del Plata and Rosario, a short bus ride (or long train ride) away.
A fertile desert town near the Andes and on the way to Santiago Chile on an overnight bus (book the first-row seat of the upper decker!).
The turquoise water, the low vegetation in varying shades of green, and the cotton-like clouds remind me of the high-altitude flora I encountered atop the Andes in Peru and the Himalayas in Tibet. The ice-carved mountains serve as a silent reminder of the glacier’s enduring impact on the landscape.
Visit to the mysterious pinguin island
The Northern part of Argentina. I crossed the border to Bolivia on foot at 3,500 meter altitude, in the cold July wind.
Chile
One month in January (summer time).
Point of entry: I arrived at Santiago’s central bus station, which was a bit run-down and sketchy, then made my way to the metro and toward my studio in a massive, densely-populated building complex.
With Vina del mar next door, and the fire coming
Puerto Montt, Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine, and Punta Arenas. I Crossed the Andes again by bus, from Puerto Montt (Chile) to Bariloche (Argentina)
An island just off the coast, with its unique charm and character. Definitely worth the detour.
Bolivia
Two months in July.
The great salt flats. The culture shock coming from Argentina was unmistakable. Welcome back, my frenzied friend of the south.
Las minas del diablo
The ideal cities
A unique city with El Alto
Paraguay
10 days, cross country from west to east.
Arrived from Santa Cruz, Bolivia, by bus and was dropped at a highway intersection in the middle of the Chaco desert, then got a ride from friendly locals.
The city of shopping malls and the mission ruins
Shopping warehouse madness and the crossing point to Brazil over a bridge.
Suriname & Guyana
Twelve days across two countries cut off from the main continent by treacherous geography.
A little-visited, Dutch-influenced colonial town. I flew in from Brasilia via Panama, arriving in the afternoon at a small airport about an hour from the capital.
An early-morning shuttle and boat ride take you to Guyana from Suriname. The Caribbean flavors and chaos that drifted onto the continent.
